In the last few months, I have had a reason to travel to Amsterdam from time to time, so I decided to make a personal survey of Dutch perfumes. But on my trip which I wanted to dedicate to the Baruti brand, Omikron raised its ugly head, a strict lockdown was announced in the Netherlands, and I only got to the nearest grocery store as far as stores are concerned.
So it was an even bigger surprise after arriving home when I found out that the Bratislava perfumery Le Parfum Le Chic had just stocked the brand.It just came to me!That can’t be a coincidence!
So I could try it really thoroughly and I can say that I’m glad it followed me: ))))
Baruti is a Dutch brand and behind it is Spyros Drosopoulos – partially Greek, partially Dutch, originally a psychologist who while working on his Ph.D. in neuropsychology found that he enjoyed perfumes at least as much if not more. Spyros Drosopoulos is also the nose behind all the perfumes. Also, all the fragrances are produced by him directly in his Amsterdam laboratory and from time to time he leads perfumery courses at the Institute for Art and Olfaction.
He introduced the first fragrances already in 2011 under the brand name Magnetic Scent, but since he later found out that the given name was already used by another company, he had to rename his own. Since he was angry, his first association was the word Baruti (in the Greek language it means gunpowder, explosion). He presented fragrances under this new brand name for the first time at the Fragranze fair in Florence in 2014.
So and I will try to present them here and now.
The name means No Oud…. it’s simply Spyros’ attempt to create an oud-scented perfume without using oud. Not that there aren’t enough of them (there never grew as many agar trees as there were oud perfumes sold in the last decade;) ), but this is a chord he created himself, according to his own nose.
The smell of some old disinfection, probably iodine.It totally reminds me of some brownish liquid in an apothecary bottle.I have to take another sniff of Betadine sometime.Quite sharp cedar to it.Wood and needles.Maybe some smaller conifers – juniper?It sounds silly, but it smells great together, a distinctly masculine and uncompromising scent.
Did he succeed?Indeed.Both the perfume and the oud-iodine impression.Supposedly one of the brand’s best-selling perfumes, and probably rightfully so.
Onder de Linde (originally Melkmeisje)
May. The essence of the scent of linden, lilac, greenery, and joy of life. In May, you open a window to the park, collect air in a container, press it down a little to fit more, boil it to thicken it, put it in jam bottles, and take it out of the pantry whenever you urgently need to have May around you.
The fragrance was inspired by Vermeer’s painting The Milkmaid (Melkmeisje). I thought for a long time why then I read somewhere that Spyros tried to materialize the calm atmosphere that emanated from the portrait. And that well-being really radiates. Both from the portrait and from the scent.
A very strange smell. Accord of fine meringues vs. beeswax, ethereal iris vs. robust fir balsam, floral osmanthus vs. animal notes, and everything at once. Warm vs. cold, sunshine vs. shade, home coziness vs. distant dark forest. And a big vintage candle next to all of it. Pick what you like, or, more precisely, take it or leave it. Oh, and at the end, someone lights that candle.
At the very beginning, a small amount of some citrus flew by that I didn’t even have time to find out what is it.It was immediately followed by cocoa, milk, strong tea, cloves, and cinnamon with a little ginger. And no, not in that order, just all at once.It’s a beautiful scent, Smooth but not without structure, with little development but not boring, inherently gourmand but not evoking a patisserie.
And since I’ve had the chance to taste real Chai in the meantime, I have to say that the resemblance is truly amazing. Not only by the scent itself but also by the pleasant, soothing, and at the same time sophisticated atmosphere that both the drink and the perfume can conjure up. It’s like a warm, soft satin blanket, with a gently tickling spice in the background. Peace, warmth, safety. I am thinking deeply about buying a bottle.
Sharp green galbanum, sharp lemon green. It reminds me a bit of Zeitgeist by Schwarzlose, just sprinkled with a bit of lemon. Violet? I do not know. Gradually, something more like a bitter green violet leaf appears. I can feel some light breezes from under him, maybe there is a small one hidden there. Or maybe not and I’m just looking for it there and I have the impression that it could be there. After some time, something milky seems to round out and “fill” the scent. But not creamy. More like juice from freshly plucked dandelions with a bit of their pollen.
The perfumer’s first fragrance – or rather, the first one he launched on the market. It should be inspired by the changes in the sky on a summer day.
A sharp, almost old-fashioned hyacinth opening. And it’s good that it’s there because it lightens the slowly and gradually appearing resins, which are beautiful, but if they weren’t lightened by something, we’d probably freeze in them like a prehistoric insect in a piece of amber. In a short time, they start to show themselves, first innocently covered with honey, then densely resinous, and then the distinctive Omani incense overwhelms it.
Berlin im Winter (originally Indigo RMX)
Some of the composition is really identical to the Indigo fragrance (ambergris, mastic, rose, incense), but it’s very interesting that it reminds me more of a Chai perfume. Just supplemented with plum and leather, which creates a very interesting accord. And yes, there is incense too. Well… I would just call it Chai RMX rather than Indigo RMX. But unlike the calm to meditative Chai, this one has some disturbing undertone that makes it on the one hand slightly provocative, on the other hand cancels the said soothing atmosphere. But really good.
Do you know the Drunken Izidor dessert (note: “Opitý Izidor” aka Drunken Izidor is traditional dessert in my region) ? So here you are. Quite exactly. Chocolate, cream, nuts, rum. Lots of rum.
This is beautiful. A classic combination of tuberose with sandalwood and musk, alone it would seem slightly old-fashioned and perhaps even slightly lascivious, but it is turned to the dark side by the rather distinctive smell of guaiac wood. Vetiver also takes its toll. Great and seems slightly perverse. Well, it occurs to me that this should have been called Perverso, not the above-mentioned dessert:)
In addition to perfumes, Spyros also develops interior fragrances, and not just any fragrances.He cooperates with The Red List Project – a unique project that creates a list of endangered plant species, tries to preserve at least their scents, and sells them to finance the protection of these plants.So, through Baruti, you can contribute, for example, to the rescue of the Parma Violet or the Portlandia.