The turn of the 80’s of the last century. The Iron Curtain breaks. Finally, it is possible to buy luxury fragrances in a different way than occationally in the pivilidged-access Tuzex store, or have them smuggled in from the outside of the country. Not that we didn’t know anything other than Living Flowers (Živé kvety) or The Smells of the Moscow (Duchy Moskvy), thanks to the cooperation (read selling semi-slave labour) with Dior we could get some classic Dior’s before, even a Dior boutique opened in the Bratislava city, where we went religiously to smell the beauty.
In fashion are rich and elaborate fragrances. Heavier, rich, complex and balanced fragrances reign on the scene, whether floral, chypre, or orientals like Miss Dior, Poison, Coco, LouLou, Cashmir, Obsession, in-the-know are looking for a classic Chanel Five, the Trésor comes with a big campaign. The first perfumeries open. On the other hand, there are tiny drugstores, which are the source of simpler fashionable celebrity fragrances such as Moments or Experiences from Priscilla Presley, but also classic soliflores from Yardley and Impulse sprays, among younger women are popular Charlie from Revlon, Fa sprays and generally “musks” of various provenance. Perfume is something of a luxury, a truly branded perfume is a treasure, with a relatively expectable scent and dignified packaging.
And then it comes. Like a comet, something completely different, incomprehensible, heavy, and for many indigestible blend, in a spacey, albeit a luxurious blue star bottle. Angel by Thierry Mugler.
A totally new brand that did not fit in with the Dior-Chanel traditions, rumors and legends at a price that would definitely match them without the soothing inscription guaranteeing the proven brand, and the content indescribable. Totally unusual mixture of patchouli and gourmet notes, unexpected but intoxicating concoction, not fitting its crystal blue packaging. Many jerked at the shock of testing, for the others it was the love on the first smell. It is available to this day and with it dozens of flankers and even more imitations.
Almost 30 years later. Métallique. Tom Ford releases a significantly different combination, albeit with gourmet notes, but combines it very unusually with aldehydes. Those are other aldehydes than we are used to, do not evoke anything floral, nothing fruity, and completely different gourmet notes than in Angel – these are fairly dry, dusty, sugary. It may really resemble metal, but rather metal in terms of a dessert fork or stainless steel vanilla cream saucepan. It is at least an interesting scent. I like it, but I don’t dare take it to too diverse society or too confined space. Just as the Angel used to be, it is equally unmistakable, and reactions are equally controversial. It’s just either-yes-or-no. Either you will hate it and it will upset your stomach, or you will love it.